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Rear
SUPER Swaybar
To better understand what happens when a car launches at the drag
strip, let's take a look at what is happening there. When the
front rises or does a "wheelie," most of the time the
drivers side is much higher than the passenger side front. This
also means the drivers side rear is much higher than the passenger
side rear. Most people add air bags to the rear and pump the
passenger side way up to keep the passenger side rear from coming down
as far. Here is a different way to look at what is really
happening there. Because of the rotation of the engine and the
massive amount of torque it is producing, those forces are transmitted
through the driveline to the rearend. What is actually happening
back there is that the passenger rear tire is actually trying to LIFT
off the ground. The tire is going up into the car, NOT the car
coming down on the tire. The passenger side air bag applies
additional weight (down-force) onto the rearend (tire), attempting to
equalize the weight on each rear tire.
Our new swaybar / Anti-roll system transfers the force from one side
to the other, doing a much more efficient job of equalizing the weight
to each rear tire. This in effect almost doubles the traction of
a fast car with no air bags, because the passenger tire would have had
very little weight on it. With the added traction and the car
being much closer to level, the car can now launch harder and
straighter. This reduces the chance of wandering out of the
"groove" and further losing traction, while making it much
safer to drive. Not having to worry about the rear slicks
getting cut or damaged from excessive body roll is an added bonus.
EARLY PROTOTYPE TEST RESULTS 04-06-03:
We have made up a couple prototype swaybars from 4130 chromoly
steel, and bolted one on a test car this past weekend (04-06-03).
The test car is a '87 Buick Grand National (G-body), with a turbo V-6
capable of mid-upper 11's in the 1/4 mile. This is also a daily
driven car that looks almost stock. The stock front swaybar is
on it & was left on it for testing purposes. The test car
also had 12.5 x 28 E.T. Street tires (basically slicks with 3 grooves)
on the rear, and filled with race gas and running well. The
tires were pumped up over the "normal" race pressure to
approx. 27 psi. This greatly reduced the rolling effect
generated by the rear tires. The car also had air bags, but to
get the full effect of the swaybars, we let all of the air out of the
airbags.
The goal was to see what differences could be found in body
roll, body/frame twist, and general street characteristics. We
did several testing methods, with no swaybar, the stock swaybar, and
our new HR swaybar with 1/4" wall 1.25" O.D. 4130 chromoly
seamless tubing. We were VERY pleased with the results so far.
Here are the testing methods & results that we found:
Test 1.) Rocking car
side-to-side by hand, holding the top edge of the driver and passenger
door openings.
1 A - No swaybar - Car moved very easily with little
effort, several inches front and back, appeared very loose.
1 B - Stock swaybar - Car still moved very easily with a
slight bit more effort, several inches front and back, still
considered very loose.
1 C - HR 1/4" wall tubular swaybar - Car moved much
less, and required much more effort to get it rocking, appeared much
tighter.
Test 2.) Jacking the front
drivers side under the lower a-arm on the drivers side only. The
car was raised with the front drivers side tire several inches in the
air, and until the passenger side front tire was just coming off the
ground. This simulated the car launching and pulling a
"wheelie." The "rear out of level" mentioned
below was found by measuring from the floor to the bottom of the wheel
openings on each side, and taking the difference.
2 A - No swaybar - Our jack was one notch from being
totally extended, and the car was twisted very badly out of shape.
The passenger rear tire was up inside the wheel opening and would have
been cut badly (probably ripped wide open) if that was an actual
launch. The rear out of level was 7".
2 B - Stock swaybar - Our jack was still one notch from
being totally extended, and the car was twisted very badly out of
shape. There was not much change in appearance from the "no
swaybar" test, only slightly less body roll noticeable. The
passenger rear tire was also up inside the wheel opening and would
have been cut badly as well, slightly less than the "no swaybar"
test. The rear out of level was 6-3/8", less than an inch
better than the "no swaybar" test.
2 C - HR 1/4" wall tubular swaybar - Our jack was
several notches away from being totally extended, and the car was
twisted MUCH less than test A or B. There was a considerable
change in appearance from the other tests, with MUCH less body roll
noticeable. The passenger rear tire was well away from the wheel
opening and would NOT have been cut at all. Remember, this is
all with ZERO air in the air bags. The rear out of level was
only 3-1/4", less than HALF of the "no swaybar" test.
The front was also noticeably more level, with 2-1/2" less
difference side-to-side than tests A and B.
Test 3.) Test driving the car,
short cruise on city streets in town, with several "normal"
driving conditions each trip. The exact same route was taken to
ensure consistent testing results, with the same people riding in the
same positions each time.
3 A - No swaybar - Did NOT drive car with no swaybar.
Having no air in the air bags, this would have been impossible to do
without destroying the rear tires. They would rub the wheel lips
on both sides, as well as the sides of the frame rails on both sides,
with any little movement other than straight ahead under minimum
throttle.
3 B - Stock swaybar - The car was barely drivable,
taking every corner EXTREMELY easy and slow. The rear tires
rubbed the frame and outer wheel openings on every corner, making us
very nervous. We did a full throttle blast going straight ahead,
and the car "danced" around noticeably but not too
excessively. We couldn't tell if the tires were rubbing due to
all the excitement. After getting it back in the shop, we
noticed that the drivers side rear tire was cut badly due to the wheel
opening digging into the sidewall.
3 C - HR 1/4" wall tubular swaybar - The car was
MUCH more drivable, and could take corners at faster (more normal)
speeds and MUCH more aggressively. After noticing that the rear
tires were NOT rubbing the wheel openings, we started to go faster in
the corners and swerving side-to-side trying to get them to rub.
The rear tires never rubbed the outer wheel openings on any corner,
and only a couple times on the frame rail on the passenger side only.
The test car has always had less clearance to the frame on that side
due to GM tolerances, and could probably use a 1/4" spacer there.
We did a full throttle blast going straight ahead, and the car didn't
"dance" around at all, and went very straight. We
probably could have let go of the wheel, no fighting or correcting
anything was needed.
EXTRA NOTES: The test car had a
40 minute drive back home after all this, with about half of that
highway miles. The air bags were left empty because it seemed
there was no need to add air to them at this time. The car felt
much stiffer and under control, and needed much less
"correction" over bumps and around corners. The
stiffer and more effective HR tubular swaybar does create additional
over-steer that is quickly noticeable. It takes a few miles to
get used to it, toning down the corrections that you would normally do
to keep the car going straight. It basically gives you the
feeling that it is on rails, like a slot car or road racer, taking
corners with ease. This was expected, but we did want to make
sure that it was not a potential problem or undesirable feeling.
It definitely eliminates any sloppy or lazy feeling it may have had
before.
RESULTS FROM DRAG STRIP TESTING 04-13-03:
We had the chance to test 2 different vehicles this weekend
(04-13-03) at a local track. The available traction was
marginal, but we got some great information and results! Weather
was decent, with temps in the 60's to low 70's.
First car was Doug Conway's street/strip '69 Chevelle with a
built 502 cu. in. BB Chevy, and 29 x 10.5W x 15 Hoosier slicks.
It is actually a pump gas motor, but you couldn't tell from the huge
roller cam and it's performance. It weighs in at 4100 Lbs. with
driver, which puts a lot more stress on things than most cars out
there. We also felt a 3400 Lb. car would have to run in the 9's
to put this much stress on the rear suspension. The Chevelle
runs consistent 10.70's to 10.80's with NO power adders, mid-low 1.4
"60 foot" times, and pulls the wheels every launch off a
transbrake. Below is a before and after picture with the only
change being the addition of our new tubular swaybar.

The pictures really tell the story here (click on them for
larger view). The "before" picture actually has 40+
psi in the passenger side airbag in an attempt to keep it from rolling
over too far. This made the car sit extremely out of level,
making many people think there was a problem with it. The
"after" picture is with our new swaybar installed and only 5
psi in both airbags (NO preload). This made the car sit level,
improving the stance 1000%, and also allowed the drivers door to be
opened on the trailer where it wouldn't clear the trailer fender
before. Doug (the owner of the Chevelle) was EXTREMELY happy
with the results and couldn't believe the improvement! He was
smiling so much, we wondered if he was going to be able to get his
helmet off! Instead
of gripping the wheel with white knuckles wondering where it was going
to go, he could have just about let go of the wheel and let it go
straight down the track. Another bonus we found by eliminating
the high preload in the passenger side airbag is that the tires will
NOT wear "funny" on the street. The best part of it
all is that he now can run the nitrous that he couldn't use before.
With the "old" suspension setup, the NOS would just
overpower the car and make for a violent wild ride off the line.
Now that it leaves the line level with equal traction to both wheels,
it should handle the added power with ease. Next will be a 572
on the bottle, making it more fun than ever before.
The second test vehicle was a street/strip '86 Buick Grand
National (GN) with basic bolt-on's owned by Jim Pliss. The GN
has a TE-60 turbo, 3000 stall converter, and other items setup for
mid-upper 11's on 116 race gas. On such short notice, he could
only get 110 octane, which limited the boost levels to 22 psi max.
He also didn't get his Moser axles that I ordered for him in time, so
he kept the launches on
the mild side so he could still drive it back home. We followed
him to the track, which is where we noticed the first big improvement.
With M/T 12.5 x 28 x 15 E.T. Streets on the rear and 10 psi in each
airbag, the car had NO problem tracking a straight line. He
actually swerved back and forth duplicating quick lane changes on the
expressway at 65 mph, and had NO tire rubbing issues, and had very
minimal body roll. It truly looked like an indy car with total
control and super reactive steering. Our new tubular swaybar
eliminated any and all "sloppy" feelings the car had before
installing it. Jim (the owner of the GN) was EXTREMELY pleased
with the results BEFORE we ever got it to the track!
At the track, there was absolutely NO body roll present at the
launch. The
car launched straight and level, and was totally in control the entire
pass. This GN had previously run a best of 12.6's on drag
radials. Even launching mildly with approx. 5 psi boost, he ran
a best of 11.92 and 11.93. It used to have a mild
"floating" feeling when accelerating, which was eliminated
with our new tubular swaybar. He mentioned the same feeling that
it would have went straight on it's own. Once he gets the new
axles installed, gets some 116 octane race gas, and swaps the rear
cargo springs out for some stock replacement springs, mid 11's will be
easily attainable.
This was Dave
Bamford at the 2003 GS Nationals with our lower CA's and the new
swaybar. The car was under MUCH more control each pass, and stayed
right in the groove. The
"before" setup on a superb track (Norwalk OH) netted some
mid-upper 1.5x 60 ft's which were quite a
bit off for a low 10 second car. The
"after" setup with HRpartsNstuff lower control arms and new
swaybar/anti-roll system netted some upper
1.4x 60 ft's, and has a lot more to go. Dave expects
some 1.3x 60 ft times with the new Swaybar, once he sorts out some
coil spring/shock setting/converter
stall issues.
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UPDATE:
As of 03-17-05, we have HUNDREDS of our
new Super Swaybar/Anti-Roll systems installed and
working GREAT! Many have found that daily
driving with this setup is drastically
improved! It has turned these older cars with
outdated technology into new-age G-machine!
Please do NOT mistake this setup for a drag-race
only system. It TRULY works excellent on the
street AND on the track! Many "race
cars" are finding their way back to the streets
due to the much better handling and street-ability
found with this setup.
As far as race results go, we have
setups working on 13 sec rides down to street-strip
low 8 second machines! The majority of our
customers are in the high 11 to low 9 sec zone,
but still works perfect on 14 sec cars & 7
sec all-out race cars with stock-style suspension.
Typical ET improvements have been in the .05 to .20
range with NO other modifications. These
improvements also stay consistent going from a good
track to a bad track, instead of falling way off
like previously (before adding this Swaybar kit).
Additional HUGE gains (.20-.60) have been possible
on cars with power adders like NOS and/or blowers
& turbos. Where the car was out of control
& twisting bad at a modest power level, it is
now straight, level, and controlled at much higher
power levels using our Swaybar. Where NOS off
the line was destructive & unpredictable before,
it is now controlled, effective, and commonplace
with this setup installed. NO other heavy duty
stock style swaybar or pro-race (weld-in) style
anti-roll system can come close to the benefits and
performance advantages that the HRpartsNstuff
Swaybar/Anti-Roll system provides, on the street AND
on the track! We have replaced MANY
(competitors) swaybars and anti-roll systems
of people that are unhappy with their
performance and/or side-effects, and need something
better. Many HD stock style bars put so much
force on the lower control arms that it destroys the
arms and/or bushings in the arms, often in less than 6
months! Many weld-in anti-roll systems bind up
when loads are applied, and restrict weight transfer
& reduce traction. Our system cures ALL of
those issues, and improves upon MANY more!
Each Swaybar/Anti-Roll kit comes
with:
1.25" (.250 wall) 4130 Aircraft Quality
Chromoly tubular swaybar (heat treated for lasting
performance),
Custom 1/2" thick laser cut upper axle brackets
(clears brake line & custom fits dia) w/gripper
points,
Custom fabricated lower axle brackets with gripper
points (welded corners for added strength),
Heavy Duty Polyurethane mounts with formed steel
clamp (grease fitting & grooves for 360*
lubrication),
Special spacer washers to fine-tune tension on
Poly-to-swaybar (for optimum performance)
Quality name brand (QA1 or FK) 1/2" Chromoly
rod ends (with Teflon/nylon self-lube liners),
HD Steel adjusting turnbuckles (RH & LH threads)
with jam nuts (matching 3/4" hex sizes),
Custom fabricated crossmember brackets (with backing
plates for top side),
All necessary HD grade 8 hardware to assemble &
attach (plated for looks & rust
prevention),
Swaybar is sandblasted, prepped, and Powdercoated
show quality gloss black,
Brackets are blasted, prepped, and painted with high
quality VHT GM satin Black,
Installation grease, parts list, detailed
instructions with handy tips, and tuning guide/info
included,
7/16" drill-bit (with custom point for easy
drilling by hand) also included (can install at
track!),
One-Year replacement guarantee!! (Zero
failures, problems, or returns since inception -
April 2003!!!)
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